Chrome Vs. Nickel Plating

Chrome and nickel are metals used to plate machine parts, such as rollers and cylinders, with a scratch-resistant surface that protects them from wear and tear. They are also used on bathroom and kitchen fixtures.

1.                            Chrome

Chrome comes in standard and hard versions. It is applied in varying thicknesses according to the required purpose. Thinner coatings are used on objects that are not exposed to much abrasion. Thicker coatings offer more protection from abrasion and corrosion. If a machine part is frequently exposed to water, experts at Phoenix Electroplating recommend an undercoat of nickel plating, as chrome is porous.

Nickel

Nickel is used to prevent corrosion, particularly when applied prior to chrome plating on objects. It is also hard-wearing and is widely used on machine parts in the oil and gas industry, the automotive industry, in making molds for plastics and in food processing machines.

Bathroom and Kitchen Fixtures

According to Rejuvenation, suppliers of home fixtures, nickel was the standard finish for kitchen and bathroom fixtures made from the 1800s until the 1930s. Chrome then overtook nickel in popularity. Nickel is warmer in appearance and creates a more authentic, antique look, but Rejuvenation says the two finishes blend harmoniously in one room.

How to Clean Chrome Plated Plastic

Any chrome surfaces actually consist of an extremely thin layer of chrome plated onto another material. Regardless of what that other material is, from plastic to steel to aluminum, this chrome plated is what needs to be addressed when the time comes to clean it. You can always buy a special chrome cleaner, but there are several items in your home that work just as well and are far less expensive.

1.                            Toothpaste Method

1

Spread a thin layer of toothpaste on the surface of the chrome plating. Use the opaque white toothpaste, not one of the gel varieties.

2

Rub the toothpaste-covered chrome plating with a soft, clean cloth in small circular and swirling patterns. There is no need to apply a lot of force.

3

Take a fresh cloth and wipe away the toothpaste, revealing a shining, clean surface.

2.                            Vinegar Method

4

Pour undiluted distilled white vinegar into a spray bottle.

5

Spray the surface of the chrome plating with the undiluted vinegar.

6

Wipe down the surface with a clean cloth.

3.                            Baby Oil Method

7

Dampen a portion of a soft cloth with baby oil.

8

Rub the baby oil into the chrome plating in the same manner as you did with the toothpaste.

9

Wipe off excess baby oil with a fresh cloth or a still fresh portion of the same cloth.

10

Wipe down the newly cleaned area with soapy water to remove any greasy feeling from the baby oil, if desired.

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How to Chrome Plastic Parts

How to Chrome Plastic Parts

1

Take the part down to the bare plastic. You can do this by etching the parts with strong chromic acid, according to Atlas Chrome. This will give you a basic surface to begin working on.

2

Repair any cracks or splits in the plastic part. You can do this by using epoxy glue purchased at your local auto supply store.

3

Dip the plastic parts with silver so that that they will conduct electricity.

4

Layer a conventional plating process such as copper, nickel or chrome onto the plastic parts in several layers. You will most likely need to lightly sand and buff the plastic parts prior this process as well.

5

Apply the chrome plating to the plastic parts for the final revamp. Do this by soaking them in a chrome plating solution for about five minutes

How to Make a Two Part Mold

There are several different ways to make molds. The most common mold types are one-part and two-part molds, with the complex three-part molds used a little less often. One part molds are best suited to flat-backed designs, as they typically require one side of the mold to be completely open at all times. Two part molds are used for most other projects, as they can be taken apart to retrieve a cast object. Three part molds are like two part molds, but have an added inner piece that makes the casting hollow.

Instructions

1

Coat your model with mold release, so that the mold material does not stick to the model.

2

Create an open-top box that will hold your liquid mold material. You can make the box out of pieces of thick cardboard or even wood, although cardboard will be easier to take apart later. Make sure that the box is at least 1/4 inch bigger than the model in all dimensions.

3

Seal the corners, edges and bottom of the box with modeling clay, so that none of the mold material leaks out of the box.

4

Mix together a batch of your mold-making material. Typically, two-part molds are made from either plaster or rubber. Make sure to take the appropriate safety precautions for the material you have chosen.

5

Pour the mold material into the box. Stop pouring once the box is half-filled. Discard the rest of the mixture.

6

Let the mold material sit for several minutes to firm up slightly. When the material is ready, press the model into it so that half of the model has sunken into the material. Let the other half of the model sit above the surface.

7

Let the mold material harden completely. If you have used plaster or rubber, this will set in 12 hours.

8

Coat the top of the mold, which has the model sticking out of it, with mold release. This will make the mold easier to separate later.

9

Make another batch of your mold material. Pour the material into the box, covering the model completely. Fill the box.

10

Let the mold material harden completely. When the material has hardened, take the box apart.

11

Pull each side of the mold apart and remove the model from the inside. Fit the mold back together.

12

Tie the mold together with rubber bands or cording. Carve a hole in the mold, at the seam, that reaches the inside cavity. Use this hole to pour your casting material.

What Is the Blow Molding Process?

Blow molding is used to produce plastic bottles.

Blow molding is a method for making a variety of hollow plastic products. Molten plastic is extruded, in a tube shape, from a die, then a mold closes around it. The plastic is then inflated.

History

Blow molding first appeared late in the 1800s, but modern polyethylene bottle production did not commence until the early 1940s.

Types

The blow molding process can take four forms: reheat and blow molding, injection blow molding, stretch blow molding and extrusion blow molding. The machinery can vary significantly, though the major difference tends to be the point of plastic inflation.

Uses

The various processes are used to create a range of products, including bleach and milk bottles. Stretch blow molding is used in the production of PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) bottles, which are widely employed for carbonated beverages.

Plastics

The plastics used in the various blow molding processes can include HDPE (high density polyethylene), LDPE (low density polyethylene), PP (polypropylene), and PVC (polyvinyl chloride).

Disadvantages of Blow Molding

Blow molding is the process in which hollow, plastic containers are made. Air is blown into molds to form items such as thermoplastic bottles, tubing and milk jugs. While blow molding allows companies to manufacture high volumes of plastic containers, which are significantly cheaper than glass, there are a few disadvantages to the process. Some disadvantages include environmental hazards and a significant dependence on petroleum.

Environmental Disadvantages

Plastic products made by the process of blow molding aren't biodegradable, which presents an obvious environmental hazard, especially when empty containers find their way to landfills. When disposed of in landfills, plastic products are buried and remain in the earth forever. Their oil-based material then becomes part of the soil and runs the risk of threatening plant life, animals and groundwater.

Dependence on Petroleum

Aside from the gasoline industry, plastic manufacturers depend on millions of gallons of petroleum in their quest to produce blow-molded products. Because oil is the most important agent in thermoplastics and blow molding is becoming more streamlined and automated, the process plays an ongoing threat on a diminishing world oil supply.

Process and Material Limitations

Although blow molding has been automated and can produce mass quantities of products, the process is largely limited to hollow forms. These forms are delicate and contain various thicknesses which must be precise, which often results in wasted material in the process of arriving at containers with proper dimensions and specifications. In some cases, thermoplastic is stretched to save on material, which can lead to substandard containers.

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The Stages of Blow Moulding

today virtually all cast plastic parts are manufactured using blow molding technology.

Blow molding is a process used to cast plastic parts that are hollow. Since 1942 when the first polyethylene bottle was produced using blow molding technology, blow molding has become the standard manufacturing process for making cast plastic parts. Blow molding involves the fabrication of a tube made of molten plastic called parison. The next stage of the process is to shape the tube into the desired form using one of several blow molding processes.

Heating The Resin

The first step in any blow molding process is to heat the resin. Thermoplastic resin is heated to about 400 degrees. Once the resin reaches its molten state, it is extruded over a die head. The die head forces the thermoplastic resin to flow around it, thus creating a hollow center in the resin. The resin has now formed a tube called parison.

Molding

The parison is then placed inside a pre-determined mold. The interior shape of the mold cavity is what will ultimately determine the shape of the finished casting. The mold is then closed around the parison. At this point in the process, the parison is still very warm. The mold however, is cooled with water.

Inflation

Compressed air is then blown into the mold. The air fills the center of the parison tube and forces the sides to expand, thus conforming to the shape of the mold interior. The parison is still very warm at this point to allow it to expand without breaking. As the warm parison expands to meet the cold walls of the mold, it freezes off and becomes rigid.

Cooling

Once the warm parison has cooled off, it solidifies inside the mold. Once properly cooled, the parison will maintain the form in which it was cast. The mold can now be opened and the finished plastic component removed.

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Dangers of Injection Molding

Many plastic products are pressed by an injection molding machine.

Many common plastic items are created using an injection molding machine, and manufacturers point to the machine's efficiency and speed in pressing out plastic products. Much of the injection molding process is automated, and in many cases, the machine operator's role is merely to monitor it. While operation requires minimal training, there are several potential dangers to running an injection molding machine.

Heat

Depending on the type of material used, the melting point for plastic ranges from 250 to 650 degrees Fahrenheit. An injection molding machine will heat up enough to not just melt the plastic, but allow it to flow smoothly into the mold. Burns are a hazard, whether from the machine's heated surfaces, melted plastic or from the freshly molded product. In addition to eye and face protection, heat-resistant gloves may be needed while operating the machine.

Caught In the Press

On an injection molding machine, the platens join together to form the actual mold, and the plastic is molded under pressure before it is ejected. This constant movement creates a hazard, as fingers can be crushed or amputated in the press. Long hair and jewelry can also get hung up in the machinery, severely injuring the operator. Reaching into a molding machine to free up a stuck part is particularly dangerous.

Peripheral Machinery

While not part of the injection molding process, waste plastic is often thrown into a grinder that can shred the scraps--or anything else that gets into the grinder--in seconds.

Fumes

Plastics and polymers are made from different chemical compounds that, when melted, may give off hazardous fumes. An injection molding machine should only be operated in a well-ventilated area.

Flying Objects

While most products made via an injection molding machine are ejected in a controlled manner, there is still the possibility of flying objects. Eye and face protection should be worn when operating the machine.

Slipping and Falling

Good housekeeping is essential when running an injection molding machine. Scraps of plastic can quickly collect on the surrounding floor area quickly, and it is easy to lose your footing and fall. New plastic is often shipped in pellet form, which can be hazardous if spilled.

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Steps of Injection Molding

·                                  

Many popular plastic items are produced by injection molding.

Injection molding has continued to grow since the late 19th century. Capable of producing small items such as combs, it is also used to create parts for airplanes and medical supplies. It is hard to imagine the world without the products it produces. The process was patented by John Wesley Hyatt and his brother Isaiah in 1872. Today, injection molding is used to produce about 30 percent of all plastic products. The process is relatively simple, but expensive. Thus it is usually only used to mass produce items.

Instructions

1

Clamp the mold shut. This will hold the mold in place while the mold is filled with melted plastic. It will also keep the mold still while the plastic cools.

2

Inject the melted plastic into the mold. The plastic starts out as polymer resin pellets which are poured into a large open-bottomed hopper. A motor turns the auger, feeding the pellets into the cylinder where they are melted and turned into molten plastic, then pushed into the mold. The auger injects the melted plastic into the mold at a pressure between 10,000-30,000 pounds per square inch. The auger then holds the plastic, forcing more plastic in to fill the mold completely. This guarantees that the final product will not contain any gaps. A gate closes keeping the plastic inside the mold while it cools. Molds are usually either water ic belting. 35+ years' experience.

3

Drill small holes into the mold, if it is cooled by water or another liquid. The cooling period accounts for about 85 percent of the molding process. The temperature of the water is usually between 33 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Water below freezing can be used. However, glycol, or a similar additive, needs to be used to keep the water from freezing. The major disadvantage to using water to cool the mold is the buildup of condensation.

4

Loosen the clamp and open the mold. Remove the plastic part that was just created. Then clean the part, removing any excess plastic.